Leong Kee Bak Kut Teh cooks the pork rib soup it is named for at 251 Geylang Rd in Geylang, Singapore, holding a 4.3 Google rating and reachable online through its Facebook page. Bak kut teh — literally meat bone tea — comes in two broad camps: the dark, herbal Klang-style broth, slow-simmered with herbs and soy, and the clear, peppery Teochew version more common in Singapore. The Klang in this name points to the first camp. A good bowl is judged on the soup itself, deep and long-cooked rather than simply salty, and it is traditionally eaten with rice, you tiao for dunking, and strong Chinese tea to cut the richness. Regulars tend to order cuts on the bone, and many Klang-style shops will top up the broth as you go. On a stretch of Geylang Road where supper is a serious business, that is a very good thing to be.