Palliser Estate Winery is at 96 Kitchener Street in Martinborough, South Wairarapa, with details of the estate at palliser.co.nz. Martinborough made its name on Pinot Noir, and for good reason: the district's dry, windy climate and free-draining greywacke gravels produce naturally small crops of intensely flavoured fruit. A visit to a cellar door is as much about the conversation as the wine, so ask what is drinking well now, what is worth cellaring, and how the latest vintage shapes up. The tasting rooms cluster within easy walking distance of the village square, so it is quite possible to compare three or four producers in an afternoon, though weekdays are quieter and unhurried. For visitors working their way around Martinborough's cellar doors, Palliser Estate is one of the district's best-known producers, right on Kitchener Street.